The traditional craftsmanship of Maison Michel Forgeron, handed down from generation to generation
Michel Forgeron and the beginnings of a family craft
In 1960, after his military service in Algeria, Michel Forgeron took over the family estate, in the family since 1909: two hectares of vines, three hectares of farmland and, to work them, a horse and the equipment that went with it.
In 1965, he brought a wife and a still into his home. Money being short, it was an old 11-hectolitre still, which remained in use until 2019.
Cognac distillation is a traditional craft: it cannot be invented.
New to distilling, Michel sought advice from his brother-in-law and from an elderly uncle, a fine distiller.
Michel was meticulous and demanding of himself, as well as of others. A perfectionist, he spared no effort to achieve the result he wanted. Little by little, he defined his own method, testing everyone’s advice and carrying out his own experiments.
The art of Charentais distillation
He controlled the heat, first with coal, then with fuel oil for greater consistency. The flow rate, the drawing-off of the heads, the heart cut, the recycling of the seconds, the separation of the tails: a whole series of delicate parameters which, when well orchestrated, make the difference between an ordinary eau-de-vie and an exceptional one, and bring out the best of this traditional craft.
Pierre and then Christophe, Michel’s sons, have carried on his method.
You can see our stills on a visit to the Maison; whether they are running depends on the time of year.
The first distillation turns the wine into “brouillis”, at around 28% alcohol. A second pass through the boiler, the “bonne chauffe”, concentrates the alcohol and aromas once more. This is the crucial moment, the one that demands great technical skill.
But what a pleasure, after the cut, to get to know the day’s newborn! To breathe in its aromas of dried sainfoin and vine flowers, to tease the taste buds with a single drop of this clear spirit that passes on its energy, crackling like fireworks before fading into fruity, almost sweet flavours.
At that moment, the distiller’s craft also means asking questions: is today’s eau-de-vie not as good as yesterday’s? Is it better? Which parameter can I adjust to do better still?
Time and ageing in oak casks
And this newborn eau-de-vie is laid down in a generously rounded oak cask, where it can rest at ease.
The cellarman will often come to check on it.
And here another craft comes into play: that of the cellar master (in French).
With his “toupette”, which he dips into the cask, he half-fills a tulip glass with this fine amber Cognac.
He studies its colour. Has it drawn enough from the wood? Should I now move it to an old cask so that it can continue its slow development?
He breathes it in and picks out aromas of vanilla, curry and coffee. He tastes it in small sips and finds a hint of prune, a touch of candied orange.
It is at this moment that he decides its future.
The patience of the cellar master
This is a Cognac with fine potential, and it is worth leaving it in its cask for another ten years, perhaps twenty, perhaps more, until the angels’ share has, over the years, helped its alcohol content to evolve.
Then, perhaps, it can be enjoyed at cask strength.
Its harshness gone, it will develop subtle aromas on the nose and on the palate, from woody notes to spicy ones. And why not a little touch of violet?
Above all, though, it is that indefinable velvety texture and its exceptionally long finish, reminiscent of the old vintage Cognacs once stored in the London docks.
Aromas that linger and draw out the pleasure of tasting for a long time.
A craft handed down, a work of time
These old Cognacs, thirty or forty years old, have taken all the time they needed to age and transform.
Take all the time you need to enjoy them, as you would a work of art.
In doing so, you pay tribute to the craftsmanship and patience of the man who made them.
Francine Forgeron
Maison Michel Forgeron — Segonzac, Grande Champagne
